LakesBloc

New Signs at O'ert Road

2011-10-31T13:59:00.005Z

I went down to Woodwell O'ert Road yesterday to checkout the state of play, since access was re-opened. Two signs have been erected: one by the entrance point (which is over the wall next to the road, as it always was) and a second immediately right of Cave Buttress (i.e. just right of Angel Deelite). The wall at the entrance has been bolstered with cement, but a stile isn't likely to be added, to maintain the area's low profile, and presumably not make it look like a right-of-way.

As previously stated the signs state the following:

Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:

1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.
2. Dogs are not allowed.
3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

Please keep to these simple, common sense protocols, along with keeping the area litter free to ensure access is maintained.

I will also be updating the Lakesbloc Woodwell guide access info ASAP.

Woodwell O'ert Road Access Granted

2011-10-25T17:09:00.001+01:00

Right then, we have been given the green light to use the crag, however, if you intend to visit please read the rules of engagement:

The National Trust have recently joined in partnership with the BMC to reinstate access to three bouldering areas on Woodwell O'ert Road on a trial basis: Wolf Buttress, Troll Buttress and Cave Buttress.

Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:
1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.
2. Dogs are not allowed.
3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

The above is from the updated Woodwell access info page, which is available to view on the BMC website:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=680

Please adhere to all of the above as well as keeping the crag clear of litter (that includes tape and fag butts!) and minimize chalking where possible (i.e. brush off tick marks after your session) as this is essentially a trial run.

Woodwell O'ert Road Access

2011-10-14T16:20:00.001+01:00

There is work afoot to open up Woodwell O'ert Road to climbers once again. The negotiations with the National Trust appear to have concluded positively and we are awaiting the NT to finish off work to the access point. They have bolstered the wall with cement and are (hopefully) putting in access information signs over the next few weeks. I will post something when I have had confirmation that the green light has been given, until then please DO NOT visit the crag, as this may jeopardize the process.

Thanks should go to Les Ainsworth for facilitating the negotiations and to the BMC who have funded the cost of the wall restoration, signs and perhaps a stile, although I'm unsure to whether the latter is part of the deal.

Once again, please DO NOT visit the crag until you have heard otherwise.

New Amenities Map

2011-09-17T10:45:00.002+01:00

I have added a map tagging a number of useful amenities in the Lakes area, which will hopefully be of use to visiting climbers. If you have any suggestions for amenities not included thus far, feel free to make some suggestions and I will add them accordingly....

http://lakesbloc.com/amenities-map.html

New Guide & New Problems

2011-09-11T15:59:00.003+01:00

I have done a new guide for the stuff on the Seathwaite Fells, which includes a bunch of very good new problems. There are links to the guide, crag info and a gallery available via the link below:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/321-seathwaite-circuit-2011.html

New Fence at Woodwell

2011-08-17T12:33:00.005+01:00

I noticed on the UKBouldering.com forum someone raised the issue of a new fence being erected by the entrance to Pylon Buttress, at Woodwell. This shouldn't be a problem, it's presumably a new fence to replace the old wire one which deteriorated a few years back. Unlike the original fence this new installation does not completely block the way through to the crag, and is just a means to keep walkers to the main footpath – which goes up to the right at the same point where the (now well trodden) path to the crag goes left.

Whilst the land on which the crag lies is technically private and owned by the National Trust, the last correspondence with NT suggested they tolerate climbing at these sectors so long as foliage remains undamaged and the area is kept free of litter and loud noise.

Brant Fell Chipping

2011-08-07T09:53:00.004+01:00

There is currently a thread on ukclimbing.com regarding some apparent recent chipping at Brant Fell. I struggle to understand the mentality of why someone would do this, and on the face of it you wonder if the person who has noticed/reported the ‘chipping’ has mistaken some innocent hold breakage for a more malevolent act. Sadly, in this circumstance, it is not the case, as can be seen in the images below. These were taken in the last couple of days by keen Brant Fell local user George North, who told me the following: “Headed up to Brant Fell this evening for a bit of traversing. Took a few photos of the chipped footholds. There's about 6 chipped holds. There's one hold that makes a move a bit easier than it was - for the most part it's fairly pointless though. Fortunately they haven't chipped the one foothold on the traverse that would make it a fair bit easier.”

Beggars belief really, and I’m not sure what you can say or do about it, other than keeping a keen eye out for the perpetrator – surely nobody in this day and age is doing this sort of thing unaware that it is completely unacceptable?

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 1

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 2

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 3

Fairy Steps Access Issues

2011-07-31T13:11:00.003+01:00

Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer/s and the Dallam Tower Estate (owners of the land), pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.

Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.

Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=501

Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.

Bad Moon Rising

2011-07-29T15:55:00.002+01:00

Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer. The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.

Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs. What should be done about this is a good question. It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end. It's also pretty eroded. I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.

Dry & New Problems

2011-07-03T09:49:00.004+01:00

After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).

These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!
http://lakesbloc.com/news/311-oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside.html

Trowbarrow Wet

2011-06-23T11:57:00.003+01:00

The Shelterstone has a decent amount of seepage at present, and with the current wet weather this is likely to continue for a while.

As an aside, take care as some thoughtless gimp has left their bowel contents in the landing zone for Vitruvian Man.

Woodell Conditions

2011-06-02T13:41:00.002+01:00

All the buttresses seem to be dry and in good nick, especially when the wind is blowing.

Up at Farelton, I noticed yet more dry tooling marks the other day. Words fail me.

50 BEST BLOCS

2011-05-29T12:55:00.002+01:00

Here it is, the latest incarnation of the LakesBloc top 50 best boulder problems list.

50 BEST BLOC: Tick List
http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html
(PDF printable/tickable version at the base of the page)

As always, I'm sure I'll have left something out, that someone thinks should have been a "certain inclusion", but hey you can't please everyone... maybe I'll do a 'Top 100' list on the blog sometime?

Any who, get ticking....

Bowderstone WIKI

2011-05-28T12:15:00.003+01:00

I have put together a WIKI website for the Bowderstone. All the main guide inclusions have been added, plus a number of newer links/eliminates, many with photo-topos and video links.

Due to the almost infinite number of variations, links and eliminates possible on the mighty Stone, I thought this would be a good way for anybody and everybody to record their favourite variants, without the need of adding them all to the guide, and making it stupidly large and complex. It is also a way of ironing grade disputes, problems with broken holds, and the exact description/rules for specific problems.

If you want to join the WIKI feel free, anybody can sign up and add/edit pages, although I urge you to read the 'How to use this Wiki' page before you plow ahead.

Bowderstone WIKI
http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/

2011 Top 50 Draft

2011-05-22T11:40:00.002+01:00

The link below goes to a first draft of the new 2011 LakesBloc 'Top 50 Best problems' list. I have taken on various suggestions, however if anyone has any more thoughts fire away. There is also a list of a few problems which came close to making the list at the base of the doc. If you think any of these are more worthy than actual inclusions, again let me know...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/LB-TOP50-2011-DRAFT.pdf (this link is now dead)

EDIT: See here for the finalized list.

Lad Stones - Sort Out

2011-05-02T09:42:00.019+01:00

As briefly mentioned in the latest news report on the site, I have sorted a few landings and cleaned a number of problems up at the Lad Stones, Tilberthwaite.

I continued where Dan Varian left off, by evening out (as much as possible) the superb, steep back face of the Panorama Stone. I’ve also sorted the terrible landing of the large impressive prow on the right side of this face, which was apparently climbed last year by Mick Adams. This was achieved by filling the chasm with dead gorse bushes, which has created a surprisingly good (springy) landing, when covered with a couple of pads.

Image top right: sorted landing of the big prow on the back of the Panorama Stone.

Other problems recently cleaned include: Hades Lair, Warstater and the Underground Butler, the good warm ups on the small block below Groove Armada, and finally, The Death Clock and Booze Baron on The Bothy. The last problem mentioned has lost a handhold and is now considerably harder (7b+?), and less good than when in its original state. The top outs to Smoking Guns and the highball 6c crack, on The Bothy, could do with a sort out, but I haven’t gotten around to this as yet. The fantastic Traci Lords, has also lost the small LH start gaston originally used, although there is a small pocket below the gaston. It looks like it will now be a bit harder – 8aish? Mick Adam's may have done it in its current state, although this is unconfirmed.

Below is a topo of the fantastic Warstater Face on the back of the Panorama Stone - a must visit face for all Bowderstone aficionados.

Problems

Rocko's Modern Life (7a+/V7) SDS From the far left corner climb a rightward curving line into p2 and finish via this.
Hades Lair (7a/V6) SDS From a big side pull and slot make a powerful move to a good hold and continue direct to finish. *
Warstarter (7b+/V8) SDS Start at the base of p2, pull on and move right to a rail, then up right again to two small parallel slots/pockets. From here climb direct to the top of the block. There are a few dodgy looking holds high up, try to avoid these - there are plenty of other solid grips to choose from. **
7a/V6 SDS Use a good, obvious slot/pocket for your RH and a small edge LH to pull on and up to the rail, continue left into p2 and finish as per this.
Warstarter RH (7c/V9) SDS Start a little lower the the previous problem, with the good slot/pocket for your LH and and a small crimpy pocket for your RH. Make a couple of tough moves to gain the rail and finish as per p3. Finishing as per p4 is 7b+.
Battalyst (7c/V9) SDS Start as per p1 but link into p3 to finish.
Big Prow (7c/V9?) The highball prow from standing utilizes some thin holds and a big a reach. Not sure if the sitter has been done?

Finally a big shout out to Ben Freeman, Dave Jones, Dan Turner, Tom Newberry, Andi Smith, Mick Adams, Tony Simpson and Dan Varian who's efforts in getting up to this great venue (despite the current poor info available for the crag - my bad!) and apply some traffic and add new problems, has helped shift loose rock, cleanup the holds and give useful feedback. Thanks guys.

If anyone else is thinking of visiting in the near future, I have added a few new images to relevant gallery on LakesBloc, to help drum up some psyche:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/gallerys/242-lad-stones-gallery.html

Warstarter Video

warstarter font 7b+ from beastmaker.co.uk on Vimeo.

Farleton Dry Tooling Continues

2011-04-23T13:11:00.003+01:00

The blithering idiot/s who have, over the last year or so, been dry tooling on the crags around Farleton and Hutton Roof, seem still to be active, as the scratches and damage to the right of New Rose show...

Do you really need to be told that this is a bad idea, and completely detrimental to the rock and area!?

New Duddon Venue

2011-04-20T10:35:00.000+01:00

Over the last month or so myself and Andy Hebson, have been feverishly working out, cleaning up and documenting a previously unrecorded bouldering area in the Duddon Valley, in the western Lakes...

Find out more via the site:

http://lakesbloc.com/news/304-best-in-the-west-extensive-new-area.html

Woodwell

2011-04-12T11:51:00.001+01:00

Woodwell was dry today.

I note that the BOBN hold has finally fallen off leaving a much less positive edge. Part of the Closer undercut has also broken, although this makes minimal difference.

Planet Fear - The Corporate Express?

2011-04-06T13:54:00.013+01:00

Ok, so it looks like Planet Fear are going to go ahead with their St. Bees Bouldering festival, having decided they are unprepared to accept the views of many local activists – including a number of key developers of the area and some of the ‘founding fathers’ and equippers of the cliffs – who all think it is an ill-conceived idea (due to the fragility of the area and not wanting set a precedent for these kind events happening on the headland in future) and essentially a marketing exercise.

The assertion placed on this Blog stating that Planet Fear had no right to advertise the event as a BMC endorsed event was proven correct, and the BMC asked PF to remove the BMC logo’s and affiliation text from their website, which they have now done. In an email the BMC sent to all concerned parties, the BMC said it in no way endorsed this event, but said it could not find objection if various access protocols were adhered to.

The underlying issue Planet Fear seem to have missed is that this is NOT a suitable place for this kind of corporate event. Despite PF’s offer of a litter sweep and claims all excess funds raised from the sales of accommodation, topos, parking etc. (all via their website) will be given to the BMC/local bolt fund, this is completely unverifiable as it is an event run by a commercial business with no external governance from an impartial body – how are we supposed to know how much money has been taken?

On a personal note, I feel particularly peeved that PF are charging for a topo to St. Bees, that will, I have no doubt, be primarily ‘researched’ via my website, which I spend countless unpaid hours and litres of petrol updating. More fool me you might say.

Anyway, Planet Fear have added their own ‘Yes-No Poll’ to their Facebook page, so I suggest the people who voted on the LakesBloc Poll make their voices heard via this medium if they so wish, as I am now turning the LB poll off. Planet Fear Poll.

For Planet Fear's current stance click here.

LakesBloc Poll Final Result (click for larger view):

Top 50 List: Update Time

2011-03-31T13:32:00.002+01:00

I'd quite like to update the "Top 50 Boulder Problems" list on the site (see link below), as it hasn't really had a proper overhaul for five years or so. Any recommendations for removals and replacements across the grade spread would be appreciated in the form of comments below...

Current List: www.lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

Woodwell Pretty Dry

2011-03-28T19:45:00.002+01:00

The word on the street suggests that the majority of Woodwell is pretty much dry, bar the usual damp breaks....

Planet Fear St. Bees Festival - Good Idea? Bad Idea?

2011-03-11T12:33:00.003Z

I have now had a number of negative comments and emails shot my way regarding the forth coming Planet Fear Bouldering Festival, to be held at the crag from the 29th to 31st April. I have put a poll on the the LakesBloc home page, I'd be keen for your input. Thanks.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/

Not Bad Dave

2011-03-01T20:57:00.001Z

Richie Hession reports that a chunk of rock has fallen out of the roof of Not Bad Dave at Woodwell Middle. The problem is still climbable, and the rock seems stable now but just be aware. The rock band under this roof has always been a bit brittle.

Graded Lists Updated

2011-02-20T10:26:00.000Z

I have updated the 7-8s graded list/s to include any recent additions to the various LakesBloc areas, as well as revising the grades and stars of a number of problems.

LakesBloc 7-8s List (By Grade) - Feb 2011 Revision

LakesBloc 7-8s List (By Crag) - Feb 2011 Revision

Feedback welcome....

St Bees Head South - Landslip

2011-02-17T12:55:00.003Z

There's been a landslip at St. Bees Head - South, from hill/cliff above the north end of the beach. Shouldn't cause too many issues if you need to get to the crag but be careful...

More info and images
http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles

St. Bees Issues

2011-02-16T13:02:00.002Z

Thought I’d share this email I recently sent to the BMC with you, as it could affect anyone who utilizes St. Bees Head…

“First up, as I'm sure you are aware St. Bees becomes evermore popular as the years roll on (partially my fault I guess), and with the increased footfall and year-round visitors the descents are taking increasing hammer, to the point where the base of the central, and most used access point, is crumbling into the sea, becoming a) an eyesore and b) slightly dangerous - the last section does not have an insitu 'confidence rope'. The upper sections are also becoming quite worn, with the original vague trail becoming an obvious muddy track with a couple of deviations off the main path. A possible solution is perhaps to close this off through the winter months (when it is at its most fragile) and ask users to use the slightly longer but easier northern descent or the more 'adventurous' southern descent at the Fisherman's Steps?

The second issue is something that is probably beyond your control but I thought it was worth bringing to your attention, as it could in future cause access problems, if and when the RSPB catch wind of it. In a nut shell the fisherman who use the headland are generally complete arse holes! They persist on leaving copious amounts of litter and various other junk - plastic bags, large towels covered in fish guts, bags of semi-defrosted bait, teabags, crisp packets, sandwich rappers, fishing line, etc etc. - on the headland after their sessions, allowing it to be washed into the sea when the tide comes in. I do not over exaggerate when I say it is pretty much every fisherman I have ever seen on the headland, whether at the north or south head. If you want further details I can furnish you with numerous anecdotes of leaving the crag with my crash pad full of bags of THEIR rubbish which I have removed. Fortunately, whilst this is a fairly big problem on the southern head, there is still fairly low numbers prepared to handle the more arduous descent into the northern head, although it does seem as though numbers are increasing – there were 6 guys there last Sunday.”

I had a positive response from the BMC. With regards to the erosion issue: there are few obvious solutions tabled and this will be discussed at the next BMC “Lakes Area Meet”, so if anyone has any views on this please feel free to attend and give your input. Regarding the fishermen and their rubbish issue: there’s not a great deal we, as climbers, can do about this other than take anything you can away and dispose of it properly. Not our job I know, but it may help alleviate any future access issues.

Snow 2

2010-12-20T11:16:00.004Z

Whilst it goes without saying most places are badly affected by the recent snowy conditions, that usual oasis of good weather, St. Bees Head, has also (unlike last year) been hit by the snow. Most specifically the Northern Head, which yesterday had around 5cm of snow on most boulders, not to mention the central descent, which has been turned into a winter Grade II gully - not for the faint of heart! On the up side, the Southern Head (thanks to its more south facing aspect) was in excellent condition from a climbing point of view, although both (on foot) approaches are a little sketchy in places.

As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.

Snow

2010-12-03T17:01:00.002Z

A quick conditions update for the current snowy period.

Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually. The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine. Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!

Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.

Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked. Get to it whilst it's good!!

Mosedale Boulders Guide

2010-10-17T14:16:00.003+01:00

I have added a basic photo-topo for the Mosedale Boulders, Carrock Fell to the database. This is directly available here...

http://lakesbloc.com/guides/carrock-mosedale-boulders-guide.pdf

For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...

http://lakesbloc.com/news/295-mexican-rumble-a-old-spice.html

Iphone & Android 'Stone' Guide

2010-10-15T12:45:00.007+01:00

Iphone & Android Bowderstone guide 'Smart Phone Aps' now fully functioning and available for free here....

http://www.thesend.co.uk/apps/bowderstone.php
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/81-bowderstone.html

21st Century Guiding!

New Langdale Boulders Guide

2010-09-19T11:53:00.004+01:00

I've knocked up a new topo/guide for the Langdale Boulders. I toyed with the idea of doing a photo-topo guide for the blocks but in the end, having used the Rockfax (photo-topo) and FRCC (overview) topos I figured that the overview method was more than adequate to purvey the information for the pure lines and worthwhile traverses at the area.

I find it a little bizarre that the Rockfax guide actually has such a level detail and inclusion of eliminates for this crag, when 90% of the other crags featured are fairly selectively/vaguely described? The contrast in accuracy and inclusion between this crag and the Bowderstone, for example, is staggering.

Any who, here is my simple new Langdale topo...
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/langdale-boulders-guide.pdf

Bowderstone Guide Updated

2010-08-13T10:22:00.004+01:00

In line with the numerous recent guide updates, I have given the Bowderstone guide a bit of a makeover. As with all the modern LB guides it now has the split Font/V grading system, as well as a few grade tweaks and a new cover....

Bowderstone Aug-2010 Update (PDF 4.81mb)

Updated Guides

2010-08-06T21:15:00.004+01:00

The following guides have been updated:

Gillercombe & Sour Milk Ghyll (Major)
St. Bees Head - South (Minor)
Sampson's Stones (Minor)
Trowbarrow Quarry (Major)

Most Popular Crags List

2010-08-02T13:03:00.004+01:00

Ok so we all love a good list; so here is a list of the most popular crags (in terms of number of guides downloaded) in the LakesBloc region so far this year...

Woodell
Kentmere
Limestone Link (Farleton, Hutton Roof, Dalton)
Carrock Fell
St. Bees South
Bowderstone
St Bees North
Windy Clough
Trowbarrow Quarry
Thorn Crag
Langdale Boulders
Fairy Steps
Old Buoys Circuit (St. Bees)
Warton Crag
Rakerigg
Gillercombe
Thirlmere
Armathwaite
Sampson's Stones
Fleswick Boulders (St. Bees)
Shucks Lair (Fairy Steps)
Cringlebarrow
Settle Earth Boulders (Longsleddale)
Blake Rigg Boulders
Red Wall Eliminates (Trowbarrow)
Lad Stones
Langstrath
Honister Pass
Heysham Head
Duddon Valley Boulders
Eskdale Granite
Cam Crag
Hyning Wood
High Rock (Honister Pass)
Black Crag
Gouther Crag
Long Crag
Rolling Rock (Patterdale)
Virtual Crag
Stirrup Stones
Clough Pike
Heron Stones

Not sure if there's much, if anything, to learn from that, but one thing I do know: with Sampson's Stones ranking in the top 5 LakesBloc venues, in terms of quality, more people should be making the effort to get up there!

Dry Tooling at Farleton!

2010-07-30T10:25:00.005+01:00

With reference to GCW's post a month or two back, I yesterday got the chance to see, first hand, the damage at Farleton.

This is has blatantly been caused by someone - a complete novice judging by the damage - dry tooling on the crag, which is just plain out of order. To add insult to injury, presumably the same person or persons has inscribed 'FPC' at the base of the Family Planning Centre sector, which is as perplexing as it is outrageous. I am reliably informed that something similar has occurred on the 'Nicks Traverse' sector at Hutton Roof, which is an equally idyllic unspoilt (not to mention SSSI) crag where this should not be happening.

I hope this is just some misguided individual/s getting it all wrong, and not a malicious act. In either case, if you are the individuals involved please stop.

Woodwell Wet

2010-07-19T18:03:00.002+01:00

Looked in at Woodwell- Tom's and Not Bad Dave areas- and it was pretty wet. Also a fair bit of seepage from the usual places. All in all I suspect it will need quite a few dry days to dry things up again. Is this the end of Summer?

Woodwell Guide Updated

2010-06-30T13:39:00.002+01:00

I have added a few additions to the Woodwell guide, as well as adjusted a few grades.

Most notably is The Crushinator, which, since the release of the guide, has been made much easier by the use of the beta whereby you slap to a decent side pull hold (rather than the slopey blob originally used). This now makes the stand up around the 7a mark. That said, a proper sitter starting at the back of the roof, has now been done - start between Lily Pond Walk and Superstar DJ Low - which keeps the sitter grade at around the 7b+ mark.

I have forgotten to add Paroxysm Low to the guide, I'll remedy this ASAP.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-lakes-limestone/233-woodwell.html

Fleswick Topo Updated

2010-06-22T19:31:00.002+01:00

A few more climbs have been done at the Fleswick Bay Boulders (I'll write a news report soon), these have been added to the basic topo, making for an increasingly worthwhile circuit...

http://lakesbloc.com/guides/fleswick-boulders.pdf

Woodwell Still Dry

2010-06-11T11:44:00.001+01:00

Checked out Woodwell last night, and despite the indifferent/damp weather of late the crag is bearing up well, with almost everything being dry enough to climb.

Also, I did a new problem at the crag that shall not be named, see here for further details.

It's Hot...

2010-05-23T11:22:00.001+01:00

Very hot indeed.

Graded Lists Updated

2010-05-09T14:20:00.005+01:00

Let me know if you notice any cock ups...

By Crag
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf

By Grade
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf

Site & Guide Update Plus New Problems

2010-05-09T12:08:00.004+01:00

I have added a fairly simplistic yet useful addition to the site, which offers related information on relevant "Crag" and "News" pages. Basically, if you are on a specific crag page the site will show the 5 latest news stories relating to that crag, in the menu column to the right. Likewise, if on any given news story, all related crags page links will appear in the same place to the right.

On the new problems front there are a couple of additions to the Brant Fell circuit, and a notable hard(ish) send up at Sampson's Stones...

http://lakesbloc.com/news/278-brant-fell-a-the-ergosphere.html

I have added the new Sampson's Stone line to the guide (for those who don't know where it is) and also amended a couple of errors...

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/170-sampsons-stones.html

Farleton Abuse

2010-04-25T16:22:00.002+01:00

Farleton was in good nick today, despite the intermittent drizzle.

On the down side I was disappointed to see scratch marks on the Family Planning area, as well as bucket loads of chalk on New Rose and the problems around The Coil.

Whilst it's great that people are visiting these areas, I would hope that people climbing in the 7s would know not to leave so much chalk, so many tick marks and so much rubbish (I've taken the finger tape and bottles away).

C'mon people, let's try to have some respect for our crags.

Ennerdale Bouldering Circuit

2010-04-25T11:37:00.012+01:00

Yesterday I thought it was about time I got around to checking out a small, far flung bouldering circuit I was told about a number of years ago, by an intrepid explorer known only (to me at least) as “Pil”.

The circuit in question is a few miles down the valley of Ennerdale, in western Lakeland. For those unfamiliar with the valley it is extremely isolated, by UK standards at least, and takes a fair while to reach even from the nearest sizable town of Whitehaven. On top of this, the valley road terminates at the head of the lake, from which the valley derives its name. As such the only way to reach the end of the coulee is on foot or by mountain bike. Personally I think this is great, as the valley gives you a real sense of what the Lakes was like before the onslaught of tourism and all the cheese ball trimmings and litter loutish behavior that brings. Anyway I digress…

Tom Newberry on Visual Impact 7a+/V7

Let’s make one thing clear from the outset: this place is not a major destination; it’s not even a minor destination. However, from time to time we do get the odd request for bouldering information relating to Ennerdale, so in the interest of definitivism [sic] I thought we should recce the area and report the findings.

Pil, the aforementioned spiller of the beans, documented his information in way of a photographic journal of what he had sent and descriptions for the lines in question. Unfortunately though we didn’t have any real idea of where the blocks were, so we just had to head down the valley in exploratory mode hoping for the best. After a couple of miles of fruitless searching we had a piece of good fortune; two gents – obviously climbers – came pounding down the valley track on mountain bikes, after the obligatory “aye up” I realized I had met one of the gents before. It turned out to be a guy I had last met in Switzerland two years previously (Neil I believe is his name), who was out with his mate to do some routes on Pillar Rock. Fortuitously, Neil’s mate was a local who recognised, from my description, the trackside block, and kindly filled us in with location details. The game was afoot.

Tom Newberry on The Grinding Mind 7b+/V8

Once we had located the boulder by the track we pieced together the locations of the other boulders (all in the near vicinity) and in turn had a great day working our way through Pil’s circuit – I had printed off all his images, and as such identifying the blocks was easy enough once we were on the right track. Despite the isolation of the area, if you are a keen boulderer operating in the mid to higher grades (the best problems are 7a/+ and above) and are ever in the area for some reason, Pil’s lines are well worth seeking out. In particular, Visual Impact (7a+/V7) and The Grinding Mind (7b+/V8) are absoutly superb, and would be classics at any crag.

Due to the esoteric nature of the area I haven’t put together an actual topo as such. However, the following *Google map contains parking, approach, boulder locations, and problem descriptions, which should suffice if used in combination with a few printed off action shots.

View Ennerdale Boulders in a larger map

*Note: The forests on the Google map do not accurately represent those actually in place, as the area is deforested and replanted regularly - i.e. the tree cover changes depending on logging activities.

To check out Pil's original info/images click here.

Dry Crags

2010-04-15T13:12:00.003+01:00

Conditions seem good across the Lakes and in light of the fact there is little rain on the horizon get out while you can.

Of the limestone crags, Woodwell is still the dampest venue. However that said, climbing is still easily possible on most buttresses.

Rakerigg Crag Finally Added

2010-04-11T13:07:00.002+01:00

This is a crag Dave Birkett showed me a long time ago, and after a few visits (over a number of years) I thought it time I finally got around to sticking up a page and topo for the crag.

This venue has a somewhat unique past, full details of which can be found on the "Crag's Page"...

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/274-rakerigg-crag.html

There are also a few action images on our Facebook page here...

http://www.facebook.com/pages/LakesBloccom/338554937459

Woodwell & Trowbarrow Conditions

2010-04-09T12:54:00.000+01:00

Current south lakes conditions, according to various local activists, are mixed to say the least. By all accounts Trowbarrow is, as you would expect, pretty much completely dry, bar the odd hold. Whereas Woodwell is pretty much a wash out, with seepage lines on most climbs.

As an aside, the 'new' circuit at Windy Clough (recently reported) dries almost instantly the rain stops...

'New' Grit Crag & Guide

2010-04-06T20:03:00.000+01:00

It’s not very often we get to add an entirely new area and guide to the ranks of the LakesBloc crag database, however thanks to Will Williamson and friends we have such an occurrence.

Find out more here.

South Lakes Conditions

2010-03-29T07:25:00.003+01:00

Despite the wet weather, early last week, the last few dry days have meant that many of the South Lakes limestone crags are in reasonable nick.

Fairy Steps - pretty dry with odd seepage line.

Trowbarrow - mostly fine, with the odd seepage line but nothing to affect any climbs majorly.

Warton - almost entirely dry, with the exception of some crack lines.

Woodwell - the worst crag in terms of seepage, some of the Central Sector is ok.

The weather for this week looks poor so get out while you can...

New Woodwell Guide

2010-03-22T21:15:00.003Z

As promised I have completed the first of this years planned new guides - Woodwell. I'm pretty pleased with how it has turned out, and I hope you find it useful. There are plenty of 'new' additions when compared with the old guide, and there should be enough to keep all but mutants and hardcore regulars going for a few years.

If you notice any glaring cock ups or suspected accidental omissions then let me know here, or via the email address on the home page of the site.

It's quite a large file (13.92mb), but I decided I'd put too much effort in to it, to then offer a poorer print quality, lower resolution version. So here is the undiluted original in all its glory...

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-lakes-limestone/233-woodwell.html
(via the 'PDF Guide' link at the base of this page)

Prime Lime

2010-03-15T13:45:00.002Z

Had a nice walk round a few South Lakes limestone crags over the weekend, and pretty much everything is now in prime conditions, especially thanks to the still very fresh air temps - out of the sun at least.

Kentmere in good nick 8/3/10

2010-03-09T02:33:00.000Z

Kentmere was pretty much completely dry. Other than being a little hot, conditions were great.
There were a couple of points of seepage on the Garburn pass bounder from the cracks, but generally pretty good.

Newbiggin Crag Dry

2010-03-04T09:14:00.002Z

I was up at Newbiggin yesterday. There is very little seepage at present, and most things are pretty dry- including The Fridge and Ingleborough Wall. There's still some snow on the ground and it's cold with any wind, so pack a jumper and a flask of coffee.

New Bowderstone Video

2010-03-02T16:32:00.002Z

Just found a neat video on Vimeo, from 'Half Arsed Productions'. This features many of the classic mid-grade lines on the Bowderstone. I have embeded it onto the LakesBloc Bowderstone Video's page...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/videos/83-bowderstone-videos.html

Warton - also getting better

2010-03-02T14:36:00.003Z

Plumb Buttress report.
The slot on E-Fix is still wet, as is the streak left of the Hoodoo traverse. The first footholds on Plumbline Traverse were also wet. Poison was dry, if a little glassy. Incidentally, Nik Jennings didn't feel the hold alteration makes a huge difference to grade.

If it stays dry (which it is supposed to) Warton will be in good nick in the next few days.

Woodwell: Wet, but getting there

2010-03-02T13:28:00.003Z

Just popped into Woodwell (all sectors), to check on conditions and to take a few crag shots. Most lines are currently effected by some level of seepage, however if this dry weather holds until the weekend a good percentage (maybe 40%) of lines should be climbable. For anyone seeking some climbing before the weekend, the central sector (Not Bad Dave SDS etc.) is, at present, the driest section of rock.

Our man on the ground (AJ Hebson) also informs me that most of Warton Pinnacle Crag was "ok" at the weekend, and as such the various Warton crags should also be in reasonable nick by the weekend, barring a break in the weather.

Warton Conditions

2010-02-25T13:38:00.003Z

Warton wasn't too bad today, the starting slot of E-Fix was wet as was Sugarfix. If only the rain would stop for a few days and it would be in good nick.

As an aside I found that the finger jug on Poison had lost its wobbly bit. It's now better at the left end and the move to it on Poison is a tad easier, as is the match for the next move. I suspect it's still 7c but certainly a little easier than before.

A picture of the hold that will make no sense unless you know it well!!

Warton and Trowbarrow

2010-02-22T15:39:00.001Z

Most of Warton Plumb Buttress was dry, although the melting snow dripping from the trees proved annoying. The left hand starting slot on E-Fix was wet, and there were some streaks on Hoodoo People but conditions should be OK if it doesn't rain.

The Pit face of the Shelterstone is in pretty good nick. There's some dampness on the rest of the boulder, but generally not too bad.

New Guides 2010

2010-02-08T13:10:00.007Z

Seen as the new site is now up and running, I thought I'd give you a bit of an update of what the plans are for new/updated guides for 2010.

First job is to get around to doing a new guide for St. Bees Head - North, which has been in the offing for a while, however the complex topography of the layout has had me scratching my head as to how to display sector/boulder locations, in the most time-efficient manner. I finally came up with the idea of using shots of the crag taken from the sea, however as I have neither a boat nor the disposable funds to hire one, I opted to ask the FRCC if I could use the images they (Paul Jennings) took for their recent Buttermere & St. Bees guide. They (Stephen Reid) kindly gave me the permission to use the images, and they've already sent me the blank originals. So once I get back from a forthcoming trip, I shall crack on with putting something together. I will be ably assisted by local sandstone devotee Dan Varian, so between us we shouldn't miss out anything too glaring.

The second port of call, in terms of places needing a well deserved guide overhaul is Woodwell. Hopefully this will also get done sometime later in the year - by mid summer hopefully.

Finally, as you may have noticed we are looking for a site sponsor/advertising partner. If you are in a position where this may be of interest, don't hesitate to get in touch, as this will help massively in terms of how much the site/guides get updated and improved over the coming months and years.

More details - http://lakesbloc.com/advertise-on-lakesbloc

More Site Updates

2010-02-01T23:37:00.006Z

I have added some much more inspirational (well I hope you think so) images to the Sampson's Stones gallery, updated the Graded Lists and also made a few tweaks, additions and amendments to both the St. Bees Head - South and Sampson's Stones guides.

The most notable grade tweaks are to Supposition Test, which has been dropped from 7c to 7b - the difference between holding the blunt arete in winter compared to summer is so substantial that the crux went from being a low percentage throw to a high percentage static lock - and Doctor Manhattan, which goes from 7c to 7b+, thanks to some more efficient toe/heel beta.

Finally, I have also added St Bees Head North and South video page's.

Shelter Stone Dry At Trowbarrow

2010-01-30T18:34:00.003Z

Most problems on the shelter stone were dry today. Parts of red wall were climbable but some streaks of seepage between american express and ying yang.

Farleton Dry

2010-01-28T19:10:00.002Z

The main areas at Farleton were bone dry this morning, viz New Rose, The Coil area, Pandemonium.
Lots of big tick marks on the latter two sectors unfortunately, I've brushed most of them off though.

St. Bees South Article

2010-01-28T16:52:00.005Z

There is a new article centering on St. Bees Head, and more specifically the recently documented and in vogue southern head, on Rock + Run's media website. Coastal devotees may find it of some interest.

St. Bees Head - South Article

User Comments Function

2010-01-27T08:04:00.005Z

I have installed a comments facility to the all the 'News' and 'Crags' pages of the site. This will hopefully help the site to be more user driven and interactive. As we don't require users to register to use the site, the system requires (as an anti-spam mechanism) you to enter your email address when you make a comment. Rest assured that this will not be either displayed on the site or used/stored/passed on by LakesBloc.

Hopefully this helps further enhance the site and is not misused. If the facility becomes hard work to maintain and unhelpful/spam-like posts are left I will remove the function from the site.

Site Updates

2010-01-24T14:17:00.002Z

Just a few site updates to report.

First up I have added a gallery for the Kentmere boulders, which can be found here. Gallery creation is an ongoing process, and partially related to how many images I have access to for all the areas on site, please feel free to donate any relevant images: pictures@lakesbloc.com

The second update relates to the St. Bees Head - South guide; which since its release a while back has been outdated, thanks to the numerous new problems put up across the inclusive areas. I have added as many of the new lines as possible to the guide which is now live for download, via the St. Bees Head - South page.

Trowbarrow Soaking

2010-01-22T13:21:00.001Z

Due partly to today's drizzle and partly the cloying fog, both the Shelterstone and Red Wall are wet and dripping. There wasn't a single dry hold anywhere this morning, plus the usual seepage was present.

South Lakes Weather

2010-01-21T12:45:00.004Z

It has been dry for the last 3 days, here in the South Lakes. As such I would expect all of the more ventilated areas to be drying out quite nicely.

Whitbarrow, as seen from the other side of the estuary...

Farleton Area Wet

2010-01-17T23:10:00.000Z

Today, pretty much everything at Farleton and Newbiggin was soaked. Surfer Rosa could be dried and Slap Arete saw an ascent, but other than that things were dire. The Fridge was dripping. Hopefully a few dry days will sort it out though.

Heysham Head and Woodwell Wet

2010-01-14T18:59:00.003Z

Pretty much everything at Heysham wet, except (surprisingly) Spider-man's Toxic Sunday. Be a while before it's worth a visit, not a surprise considering recent weather though.

Tom's Roof is now taking a fair bit of melt water with most problems affected today. More water was coming down from above so I'd expect it to get worse before it gets better. I'm also told most things at WoR are wet too.

Trowbarrow and Warton Conditions

2010-01-10T19:12:00.003Z

The 'big thaw' hit warton today and the snow on the top of plum buttress and in the tree is melting . This has resulted in streaks of water down the butress and onto some of the key holds. I managed to dry the holds on and climb on posion but the jug on voodoo people was wet.

Over at trowbarrow the vitruvian man face of the giant shelter stone was climable and in top nick. The other faces had melting snow on top and if the thaw continues will be wet. The red wall area was ok. Seepage on ying yang, the start of shallow grave and the diagonal break at the foot of nicks problem.

Warton Conditions

2010-01-09T17:04:00.006Z

Parts of plumb buttress were climbable. Problems from voodoo magic to debaser were in mint conditions. The easier problems to the left and right had snow on the big ledges and in the jugs.

The yew tree growing out of the crag above voodoo people was laiden with snow so if the temperatures warm up i'd imagine it would all melt and drip down the buttress. At the moment you can get a good few hours bouldering done at this area.

General Weather Overview

2010-01-06T12:53:00.003Z

As you can see by checking any of the Lakes webcams, the area, like much of the country, is coated in a decent layer of the white stuff. Having said that it's still pretty cold and the snow is not melting too much, so you may be able to clear some dry rock with a fine bristled sweeping brush at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Carrock Fell and the Bowderstone, or any venues that don't get masses of sunshine...

Warton and Woodwell Conditions

2010-01-04T16:31:00.001Z

Warton Plumb area is pretty much all dry, although it was so cold everything felt a bit glassy.

Tom's roof wasn't bad, the usual seepage on the low break of BOBN, Closer, right undercut of AOSD etc. Anesthesia dry, but again felt slippery.

St. Bees Dry

2010-01-04T14:00:00.004Z

Had an awesome day at St. Bees Head yesterday, no snow and everything is bone dry. Bit slippy underfoot in some places, but other that it was almost too warm! All the 'new' lines seem to be receiving plenty of attention, and there were loads of topo clutching folk getting stuck in to sends - great to see.

Trowbarrow Conditions

2010-01-01T14:59:00.003Z

Pretty good today considering recent weather.

The Shelterstone is pretty much all dry, if a little glassy.

Red Wall has the usual streaks (Yin Yang, left of Grimlock's, right of 6 Foot Sicks etc) but was otherwise OK- certianly plenty to go at.

Having said that, it has started snowing again this afternoon so things may change.

New Borrowdale Webcam

2009-12-28T08:48:00.003Z

Dan Varian has given me a heads-up on an excellent webcam which faces out of Keswick and up the Borrowdale valley, ideal for getting upto date weather lowdown's for the Bowderstone, Gillercombe, or Langstrath.

I have added it to the 'Lakeland Webcams' page, and the image below links straight to the cam:

http://www.highfieldkeswick.co.uk/netcam.jpg

Lists Glorious Lists

2009-12-23T20:54:00.013Z

I have updated the 7&8's graded lists to include all the stuff done in November and December 2009, as well as upgrading Iron Man (in Trowbarrow Quarry) back (from 7c+) to 8a/V11.

After various online Chinese whispers and score card comments. I had been under the impression that this problem had been made significantly easier, through the discovery of some (albeit pretty obvious) toe-hook beta, negating the big throw. However, after talking to strong, local based, youth Tom Newberry, it seems that both he and Nick Clement have been having a tough time of linking the climb; this after both protagonists have put in a number of sessions on the problem. Couple this with a number of comments on UKBouldering.com, from ascentionists and would be suitors, it leads me to think that the line is still 8a/V11. As with all these things, it all comes out in the wash, and consensus reigns supreme...hopefully.

Image: Dan Warren sending Iron Man 8a/V11

Updated 7&8's List
By Crag: http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf
By Grade: http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf

Also of note: I have updated the LakesBloc "Top 50" problems tick list, as well as adding an easily printable PDF version:

http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

As there are so many good problems in the region these list are pretty much a personal view, but I have tried to cover a good spread of areas, rock types, and of course grades. As ever, I'm open to debate on which problems should, or should not be on the document, so all comments welcome...

Grades

2009-12-22T13:00:00.004Z

I have added a new "Grade Conversion Table" to the site, this can be reached via the Main Menu tabs at the top of the site.

Regarding grades: I will continue to use the split grading system (e.g. 7a/V6) as no one in the UK seems able to make up their minds about which system should be universally used - regular/stronger boulderers prefer the Font system, and lower end users seem to prefer V's. Pah! To be honest, I'm quite happy with this compromise, it's reasonably neat and caters for everyone. However, I have sanctioned a personal rule NO split, split grades (e.g. 6c+/7a/V5/V6) this looks terribly messy - are you listening Mr. Panton? You simply have to make a decision, and if in doubt I'll just plump for the lower grade. Any feedback is welcome of course....

South Lakes Winter Wonderland

2009-12-21T12:28:00.000Z

There isn't going to be much dry for a while at least, as the whole of Lakeland has been doused (much like the rest of the UK) in a thick blanket of lush white snow - which despite being great for sledging, snowballing and skiing, is rubbish for rock climbing.

Anyway, as it was pretty picturesque out yesterday, I thought I'd go for a walk in the Warton area (as that was as far as could get before the roads were completely screwed!) to see if I could find a dry bit of rock. No such luck I'm afraid, however I did get quite a collection of nice shots of the South Lakes and Bay area...

On the way up Warton Crag:

From the base of Warton Upper Crag:

From the top of Warton Upper Crag:

From the top of Warton Pinnacle Crag, looking out over the Bay:

Looking out toward Grange:

New Gallery and Gallery Update

2009-12-20T10:03:00.000Z

I have added a new gallery for the Eskdale granite circuit:
lakesbloc.com/gallerys/247-eskdale-granite-gallery.html

I've also added some great new additions to the St. Bees - North gallery page:
lakesbloc.com/gallerys/235-st-bees-head-north-gallery.html

Thanks to Tom Peckitt for the great images he gave us for both Galleries.

Fairy Steps Dry

2009-12-20T09:14:00.000Z

I went to Fairy Steps on Friday afternoon and it was pretty much dry, especially the harder things - Walk Away, Axiom, Intellect SDS etc.