Bowderstone WIKI

I have put together a WIKI website for the Bowderstone. All the main guide inclusions have been added, plus a number of newer links/eliminates, many with photo-topos and video links.

Due to the almost infinite number of variations, links and eliminates possible on the mighty Stone, I thought this would be a good way for anybody and everybody to record their favourite variants, without the need of adding them all to the guide, and making it stupidly large and complex. It is also a way of ironing grade disputes, problems with broken holds, and the exact description/rules for specific problems.

If you want to join the WIKI feel free, anybody can sign up and add/edit pages, although I urge you to read the 'How to use this Wiki' page before you plow ahead.

Bowderstone WIKI
http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/

2011 Top 50 Draft

The link below goes to a first draft of the new 2011 LakesBloc 'Top 50 Best problems' list. I have taken on various suggestions, however if anyone has any more thoughts fire away. There is also a list of a few problems which came close to making the list at the base of the doc. If you think any of these are more worthy than actual inclusions, again let me know...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/LB-TOP50-2011-DRAFT.pdf (this link is now dead)

EDIT: See here for the finalized list.

Lad Stones - Sort Out

As briefly mentioned in the latest news report on the site, I have sorted a few landings and cleaned a number of problems up at the Lad Stones, Tilberthwaite.

I continued where Dan Varian left off, by evening out (as much as possible) the superb, steep back face of the Panorama Stone. I’ve also sorted the terrible landing of the large impressive prow on the right side of this face, which was apparently climbed last year by Mick Adams. This was achieved by filling the chasm with dead gorse bushes, which has created a surprisingly good (springy) landing, when covered with a couple of pads.

Image top right: sorted landing of the big prow on the back of the Panorama Stone.

Other problems recently cleaned include: Hades Lair, Warstater and the Underground Butler, the good warm ups on the small block below Groove Armada, and finally, The Death Clock and Booze Baron on The Bothy. The last problem mentioned has lost a handhold and is now considerably harder (7b+?), and less good than when in its original state. The top outs to Smoking Guns and the highball 6c crack, on The Bothy, could do with a sort out, but I haven’t gotten around to this as yet. The fantastic Traci Lords, has also lost the small LH start gaston originally used, although there is a small pocket below the gaston. It looks like it will now be a bit harder – 8aish? Mick Adam's may have done it in its current state, although this is unconfirmed.

Below is a topo of the fantastic Warstater Face on the back of the Panorama Stone - a must visit face for all Bowderstone aficionados.

Problems

1. Rocko's Modern Life (7a+/V7) SDS From the far left corner climb a rightward curving line into p2 and finish via this.
   
2. Hades Lair (7a/V6) SDS From a big side pull and slot make a powerful move to a good hold and continue direct to finish. *
   
3. Warstarter (7b+/V8) SDS Start at the base of p2, pull on and move right to a rail, then up right again to two small parallel slots/pockets. From here climb direct to the top of the block. There are a few dodgy looking holds high up, try to avoid these - there are plenty of other solid grips to choose from. **
   
4. 7a/V6 SDS Use a good, obvious slot/pocket for your RH and a small edge LH to pull on and up to the rail, continue left into p2 and finish as per this.
5. Warstarter RH (7c/V9) SDS Start a little lower the the previous problem, with the good slot/pocket for your LH and and a small crimpy pocket for your RH. Make a couple of tough moves to gain the rail and finish as per p3. Finishing as per p4 is 7b+.
   
6. Battalyst (7c/V9) SDS Start as per p1 but link into p3 to finish.
   
7. Big Prow (7c/V9?) The highball prow from standing utilizes some thin holds and a big a reach. Not sure if the sitter has been done?

Finally a big shout out to Ben Freeman, Dave Jones, Dan Turner, Tom Newberry, Andi Smith, Mick Adams, Tony Simpson and Dan Varian who's efforts in getting up to this great venue (despite the current poor info available for the crag - my bad!) and apply some traffic and add new problems, has helped shift loose rock, cleanup the holds and give useful feedback. Thanks guys.

If anyone else is thinking of visiting in the near future, I have added a few new images to relevant gallery on LakesBloc, to help drum up some psyche:
http://www.lakesbloc.com/gallerys/242-lad-stones-gallery.html

Warstarter Video

warstarter font 7b+ from beastmaker.co.uk on Vimeo.

Farleton Dry Tooling Continues

The blithering idiot/s who have, over the last year or so, been dry tooling on the crags around Farleton and Hutton Roof, seem still to be active, as the scratches and damage to the right of New Rose show...



Do you really need to be told that this is a bad idea, and completely detrimental to the rock and area!?

New Duddon Venue

Over the last month or so myself and Andy Hebson, have been feverishly working out, cleaning up and documenting a previously unrecorded bouldering area in the Duddon Valley, in the western Lakes...

Find out more via the site:

http://lakesbloc.com/news/304-best-in-the-west-extensive-new-area.html

Woodwell

Woodwell was dry today.

I note that the BOBN hold has finally fallen off leaving a much less positive edge. Part of the Closer undercut has also broken, although this makes minimal difference.

Planet Fear - The Corporate Express?

Ok, so it looks like Planet Fear are going to go ahead with their St. Bees Bouldering festival, having decided they are unprepared to accept the views of many local activists – including a number of key developers of the area and some of the ‘founding fathers’ and equippers of the cliffs – who all think it is an ill-conceived idea (due to the fragility of the area and not wanting set a precedent for these kind events happening on the headland in future) and essentially a marketing exercise.

The assertion placed on this Blog stating that Planet Fear had no right to advertise the event as a BMC endorsed event was proven correct, and the BMC asked PF to remove the BMC logo’s and affiliation text from their website, which they have now done. In an email the BMC sent to all concerned parties, the BMC said it in no way endorsed this event, but said it could not find objection if various access protocols were adhered to.

The underlying issue Planet Fear seem to have missed is that this is NOT a suitable place for this kind of corporate event. Despite PF’s offer of a litter sweep and claims all excess funds raised from the sales of accommodation, topos, parking etc. (all via their website) will be given to the BMC/local bolt fund, this is completely unverifiable as it is an event run by a commercial business with no external governance from an impartial body – how are we supposed to know how much money has been taken?

On a personal note, I feel particularly peeved that PF are charging for a topo to St. Bees, that will, I have no doubt, be primarily ‘researched’ via my website, which I spend countless unpaid hours and litres of petrol updating. More fool me you might say.

Anyway, Planet Fear have added their own ‘Yes-No Poll’ to their Facebook page, so I suggest the people who voted on the LakesBloc Poll make their voices heard via this medium if they so wish, as I am now turning the LB poll off. Planet Fear Poll.

For Planet Fear's current stance click here.

LakesBloc Poll Final Result (click for larger view):