Fairy Steps Access Issues

Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer/s and the Dallam Tower Estate (owners of the land), pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.

Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.

Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=501

Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.

Bad Moon Rising

Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer. The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.

Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs. What should be done about this is a good question. It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end. It's also pretty eroded. I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.

Dry & New Problems

After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).

These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!
http://lakesbloc.com/news/311-oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside.html

Trowbarrow Wet

The Shelterstone has a decent amount of seepage at present, and with the current wet weather this is likely to continue for a while.

As an aside, take care as some thoughtless gimp has left their bowel contents in the landing zone for Vitruvian Man.

Woodell Conditions

All the buttresses seem to be dry and in good nick, especially when the wind is blowing.

Up at Farelton, I noticed yet more dry tooling marks the other day. Words fail me.

50 BEST BLOCS

Here it is, the latest incarnation of the LakesBloc top 50 best boulder problems list.

50 BEST BLOC: Tick List
http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html
(PDF printable/tickable version at the base of the page)

As always, I'm sure I'll have left something out, that someone thinks should have been a "certain inclusion", but hey you can't please everyone... maybe I'll do a 'Top 100' list on the blog sometime?

Any who, get ticking....

Bowderstone WIKI

I have put together a WIKI website for the Bowderstone. All the main guide inclusions have been added, plus a number of newer links/eliminates, many with photo-topos and video links.

Due to the almost infinite number of variations, links and eliminates possible on the mighty Stone, I thought this would be a good way for anybody and everybody to record their favourite variants, without the need of adding them all to the guide, and making it stupidly large and complex. It is also a way of ironing grade disputes, problems with broken holds, and the exact description/rules for specific problems.

If you want to join the WIKI feel free, anybody can sign up and add/edit pages, although I urge you to read the 'How to use this Wiki' page before you plow ahead.

Bowderstone WIKI
http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/