New Fence at Woodwell

I noticed on the UKBouldering.com forum someone raised the issue of a new fence being erected by the entrance to Pylon Buttress, at Woodwell. This shouldn't be a problem, it's presumably a new fence to replace the old wire one which deteriorated a few years back. Unlike the original fence this new installation does not completely block the way through to the crag, and is just a means to keep walkers to the main footpath – which goes up to the right at the same point where the (now well trodden) path to the crag goes left.

Whilst the land on which the crag lies is technically private and owned by the National Trust, the last correspondence with NT suggested they tolerate climbing at these sectors so long as foliage remains undamaged and the area is kept free of litter and loud noise.

Brant Fell Chipping

There is currently a thread on ukclimbing.com regarding some apparent recent chipping at Brant Fell. I struggle to understand the mentality of why someone would do this, and on the face of it you wonder if the person who has noticed/reported the ‘chipping’ has mistaken some innocent hold breakage for a more malevolent act. Sadly, in this circumstance, it is not the case, as can be seen in the images below. These were taken in the last couple of days by keen Brant Fell local user George North, who told me the following: “Headed up to Brant Fell this evening for a bit of traversing. Took a few photos of the chipped footholds. There's about 6 chipped holds. There's one hold that makes a move a bit easier than it was - for the most part it's fairly pointless though. Fortunately they haven't chipped the one foothold on the traverse that would make it a fair bit easier.”

Beggars belief really, and I’m not sure what you can say or do about it, other than keeping a keen eye out for the perpetrator – surely nobody in this day and age is doing this sort of thing unaware that it is completely unacceptable?

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 1



Brant Fell Chipping: Image 2



Brant Fell Chipping: Image 3

Fairy Steps Access Issues

Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer/s and the Dallam Tower Estate (owners of the land), pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.

Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.

Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=501

Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.

Bad Moon Rising

Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer. The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.

Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs. What should be done about this is a good question. It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end. It's also pretty eroded. I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.

Dry & New Problems

After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).

These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!
http://lakesbloc.com/news/311-oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside.html

Trowbarrow Wet

The Shelterstone has a decent amount of seepage at present, and with the current wet weather this is likely to continue for a while.

As an aside, take care as some thoughtless gimp has left their bowel contents in the landing zone for Vitruvian Man.

Woodell Conditions

All the buttresses seem to be dry and in good nick, especially when the wind is blowing.

Up at Farelton, I noticed yet more dry tooling marks the other day. Words fail me.