Carrock - Another 8A, Cleaned Lines & Broken Holds

Just a link to the latest news report, which describes some landing improvements (resulting in a new 8A), grade readjustments due to broken holds and cleaned up lines.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/340-metronome.html

Badger Rock Access

There has been an incident at Badger Rock (Kentmere) whereby a group of individuals were witnessed endeavouring to climb over the dry stone wall which surrounds the field in which the block sits.

Apparently one of the individuals was climbing over the wall when it completely gave way and badly damaged the boundary between the Garburn Pass and the farmer’s field. One can only surmise they were coming from Little Font and trying to avoid the massive (irony intended) 100m walk to the gate which accesses the field. Access to the boulder has always been a bit delicate and this could cause a problem with the landowner.

I have emailed the BMC access rep for Kentmere asking if he could pre-empt the situation and try to diffuse any possible problems. In the meantime I think it would be wise to stay clear of the boulder, at least until the BMC have had a chance to contact the landowner.

RIP Hold X

The infamous X-hold on the Bowderstone's Ladder Face has finally gone to a better place, after the years of strain finally caught up with it and it exploded whilst in foothold mode recently. This grip is best known as the 'off limits' handhold on the original eliminate sequence to Power Pinch, however it is also used on the popular Impropa RH and many of the links that cross this section of wall.

Local ‘Styan’ regular, Dan Turner, has been to the block since the demise of the hold and reports the following:

I repeated Impropa RH (via Power Pinch,) probably goes at hard V9/7c now. I also did all the moves to get you into the link ups (Lateral into Impropa, Lateral into Grand and TheLlink). Doubt it will change the grade but it will probably make them all fairly hard for the grade.

So in real terms, it sounds like Impropa RH is now defunct but other than that no major disruptions to other problems/links.

X-Hold Scar (Photo courtesy of Pete Wilkinson):

Seathwaite Guide Updated

I have updated the popular Seathwaite Circuit guide to include some of the more recent additions, most notably the Fox Force Five (7c) and Screwball Scramble (7a+) blocks. I have also tweaked the accuracy of the map to help with locating boulders/problems.

The updated guide is available to download via the Crag Page here:
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/227-seathwaite-circuit-duddon.html

New Guide, New Classic

Further to the recent report of the superb 'new' granite Tear Drop Boulder, in Eskdale, there have been further developments on the boulder. These have resulted in some new problems (including an amazing new 7m arete), a new topo-guide and 'crag page' for the block.

Find out more about this great new addition (offering a 15 problem circuit) to the Lakes District venue list via the following links:

Diamond Reign - News Report
Tear Drop Boulder - Crag Page

50 Best List on UKClimbing

Keen local activist, George North, has kindly put together a "LakesBloc 50 Best Tick List" over on UKClimbing.com. Now you can combine ticking some of the best lines the LakesBloc coverage zone has to offer with logging them directly into your UKC logbook. Nice one George!

The list is avaiable to view here.

New Signs at O'ert Road

I went down to Woodwell O'ert Road yesterday to checkout the state of play, since access was re-opened. Two signs have been erected: one by the entrance point (which is over the wall next to the road, as it always was) and a second immediately right of Cave Buttress (i.e. just right of Angel Deelite). The wall at the entrance has been bolstered with cement, but a stile isn't likely to be added, to maintain the area's low profile, and presumably not make it look like a right-of-way.

As previously stated the signs state the following:

Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:

1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.
2. Dogs are not allowed.
3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

Please keep to these simple, common sense protocols, along with keeping the area litter free to ensure access is maintained.

I will also be updating the Lakesbloc Woodwell guide access info ASAP.