Lakes Boulder Roundup 2014

I've written a bouldering roundup incorporating the highlights of 2014 and a few bits from 2013. For those interested, this is available to read via UKClimbing:

Article: Lakes Bouldering Round-up 2013/14

Warton Guide Updated

As the title suggests, the Warton guide has had a tidy up and few updates added.

Warton Crags Bouldering Guide PDF (4.72mb)

Hold Breakage at St. Bees North

Jack Metcalfe reports some hold breakage on the recently developed Modulator Block, located close to the base of St. Bees North's Northern Descent. Jack re-climbed the relevant lines and added a couple of other variants. He explains:

While repeating 'Modulator' last week a hold broke off unfortunately - this is the 'spikey edge' that you make a difficult dead point move to with your left hand while your right hand is still on the jug at the base of the bloc. Fortunately the problem is still possible but it now involves the use of a 2 finger pocket on the right-hand face in order to bring your left hand up to the good edges on the blunt arete. With the use of a right heel toe in the white rock it's possible to reach the pocket quite steadily.

After repeating the other problems on the bloc I added 2 variation finishes to both Salvage and Modulator. For Salvage, after making the crux move out to the far right-hand pocket, instead of crossing over with you left-hand as Tom does into the Modulator holds, I went straight up to the top of the bloc and topped out directly. This is a touch easier than Tom's full problem. For Modulator, after gaining the good holds on the blunt arete, instead of popping out to the rib on the right, I went straight up and left to the top of the bloc and topped out slightly left after a bit of shuffling to find some holds for use rocking over. This goes at about the same grade.

After a number of repeats from the guys on this side of t'Lakes the grades have settled a bit and are now roughly as follows:

Modulator (after hold breakage and new beta) - 7A
Modulator (LH finish) - 7A
Buoyz in the Hood - 7B
Salvage - 7B+
Salvage (direct finish) - 7B

Fleswick Bay Path Closure

The path which most people use to gain access to Fleswick Bay, at St. Bees Head, has been closed by the farmer and the signs marking its way removed. I'm not entirely sure of the reasoning behind this or if it is just a seasonal thing but for the time being (whilst the signs are not there) it is probably best to access the bay via the (longer) cliff top approach. This involves carrying on as though you were going to the normal Northern Head sectors, but once at the top of the cliffs follow the cliff top path south to where it is possible to gain access to the shoreline and the bay itself.

To be fair, whatever the reasoning, the path is not designated a public right of way on the OS map, so the farmer is probably well within his rights to do this.

Chipping at Rolling Rock

Some misguided individual has rather selfishly chipped, and in doing so improved, the reasonable low edge/side pull at the base of the Jungle Hobo arete on the Rolling Rock, Patterdale. Whilst it is not impossible that this is natural breakage it seems unlikely looking at the multiple scarring and improved hold.

It is believed that the damage to the hold has reduced the grade of both the stand and sit (Grand Unification) by a whole grade or so.

It is a sad day when people start chipping classic lines like this, lets hope it was a visitor to the area and someone who is unlikely to return any time soon!

[Thanks to Chris Arthur for the information and image.]

Got the Poison, Got the Remedy

I have repaired and and re-sent Poison at Warton Pinnacle Crag. The crucial good hold on the lip, just before the final lay-back crack section, had deteriorated to a point where it was no longer usable and thus the problem had become defunct. Obviously this was a shame as this is one of the better high 7's on South Lakes Limestone.

Right: Me resending Poison (7C+) via the repaired hold.

As there was nothing really left to glue back (the mainstay of the hold had crumbled away), I scraped out the remaining loose bits and completely re-stabilised the hold with epoxy resin, meaning it shouldn't deteriorate again. The hold is not as juggy as it once was, however it is perfectly serviceable and pleasant enough to use. Plus it is now totally solid. The reduced positivity of the hold makes the line a fair bit tougher and it is probably now in the 7C+ ballpark.

Repaired hold...

Lost Buoys Lost

Liam Halsay reports the demise of another quality St. Bees problem, due to winter-storm damage. It appears that 'Lost Buoys' at the Old Buoys Circuit of the Northern Head has been hit by some big blocks, resulting in it being moved and having a number of holds badly damaged. Liam said it may still be possible but the landing is less good and it would probably be easier. :o(