Sunday, 27 April 2014

Got the Poison, Got the Remedy

I have repaired and and re-sent Poison at Warton Pinnacle Crag. The crucial good hold on the lip, just before the final lay-back crack section, had deteriorated to a point where it was no longer usable and thus the problem had become defunct. Obviously this was a shame as this is one of the better high 7's on South Lakes Limestone.

Right: Me resending Poison (7C+) via the repaired hold.

As there was nothing really left to glue back (the mainstay of the hold had crumbled away), I scraped out the remaining loose bits and completely re-stabilised the hold with epoxy resin, meaning it shouldn't deteriorate again. The hold is not as juggy as it once was, however it is perfectly serviceable and pleasant enough to use. Plus it is now totally solid. The reduced positivity of the hold makes the line a fair bit tougher and it is probably now in the 7C+ ballpark.

Repaired hold...

Monday, 21 April 2014

Lost Buoys Lost

Liam Halsay reports the demise of another quality St. Bees problem, due to winter-storm damage. It appears that 'Lost Buoys' at the Old Buoys Circuit of the Northern Head has been hit by some big blocks, resulting in it being moved and having a number of holds badly damaged. Liam said it may still be possible but the landing is less good and it would probably be easier. :o(

Sunday, 6 April 2014

New Dow Crag Bouldeirng Guide

There's a new 10 page guide to the Dow Crag area now available to download via the crag page on LakesBloc: 

The new guide cover 70+ problems from 2-8A and incorporates Nettle Crag, the Cove Stones and the Dow Crag boulders.

Have fun.