Sunday, 31 July 2011

Fairy Steps Access Issues

Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer/s and the Dallam Tower Estate (owners of the land), pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.

Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.

Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.

Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.

Friday, 29 July 2011

Bad Moon Rising

Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer. The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.

Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs. What should be done about this is a good question. It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end. It's also pretty eroded. I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.

Sunday, 3 July 2011

Dry & New Problems

After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).

These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!