Monday, 20 December 2010
As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.
Friday, 3 December 2010
Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually. The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine. Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!
Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.
Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked. Get to it whilst it's good!!
Sunday, 17 October 2010
For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...
Friday, 15 October 2010
21st Century Guiding!
Sunday, 19 September 2010
I find it a little bizarre that the Rockfax guide actually has such a level detail and inclusion of eliminates for this crag, when 90% of the other crags featured are fairly selectively/vaguely described? The contrast in accuracy and inclusion between this crag and the Bowderstone, for example, is staggering.
Any who, here is my simple new Langdale topo...
Friday, 13 August 2010
Bowderstone Aug-2010 Update (PDF 4.81mb)
Friday, 6 August 2010
Monday, 2 August 2010
- Limestone Link (Farleton, Hutton Roof, Dalton)
- Carrock Fell
- St. Bees South
- St Bees North
- Windy Clough
- Trowbarrow Quarry
- Thorn Crag
- Langdale Boulders
- Fairy Steps
- Old Buoys Circuit (St. Bees)
- Warton Crag
- Sampson's Stones
- Fleswick Boulders (St. Bees)
- Shucks Lair (Fairy Steps)
- Settle Earth Boulders (Longsleddale)
- Blake Rigg Boulders
- Red Wall Eliminates (Trowbarrow)
- Lad Stones
- Honister Pass
- Heysham Head
- Duddon Valley Boulders
- Eskdale Granite
- Cam Crag
- Hyning Wood
- High Rock (Honister Pass)
- Black Crag
- Gouther Crag
- Long Crag
- Rolling Rock (Patterdale)
- Virtual Crag
- Stirrup Stones
- Clough Pike
- Heron Stones
Friday, 30 July 2010
This is has blatantly been caused by someone - a complete novice judging by the damage - dry tooling on the crag, which is just plain out of order. To add insult to injury, presumably the same person or persons has inscribed 'FPC' at the base of the Family Planning Centre sector, which is as perplexing as it is outrageous. I am reliably informed that something similar has occurred on the 'Nicks Traverse' sector at Hutton Roof, which is an equally idyllic unspoilt (not to mention SSSI) crag where this should not be happening.
I hope this is just some misguided individual/s getting it all wrong, and not a malicious act. In either case, if you are the individuals involved please stop.
Monday, 19 July 2010
Wednesday, 30 June 2010
Most notably is The Crushinator, which, since the release of the guide, has been made much easier by the use of the beta whereby you slap to a decent side pull hold (rather than the slopey blob originally used). This now makes the stand up around the 7a mark. That said, a proper sitter starting at the back of the roof, has now been done - start between Lily Pond Walk and Superstar DJ Low - which keeps the sitter grade at around the 7b+ mark.
I have forgotten to add Paroxysm Low to the guide, I'll remedy this ASAP.
Tuesday, 22 June 2010
Friday, 11 June 2010
Also, I did a new problem at the crag that shall not be named, see here for further details.
Sunday, 9 May 2010
On the new problems front there are a couple of additions to the Brant Fell circuit, and a notable hard(ish) send up at Sampson's Stones...
I have added the new Sampson's Stone line to the guide (for those who don't know where it is) and also amended a couple of errors...
Sunday, 25 April 2010
On the down side I was disappointed to see scratch marks on the Family Planning area, as well as bucket loads of chalk on New Rose and the problems around The Coil.
Whilst it's great that people are visiting these areas, I would hope that people climbing in the 7s would know not to leave so much chalk, so many tick marks and so much rubbish (I've taken the finger tape and bottles away).
C'mon people, let's try to have some respect for our crags.
The circuit in question is a few miles down the valley of Ennerdale, in western Lakeland. For those unfamiliar with the valley it is extremely isolated, by UK standards at least, and takes a fair while to reach even from the nearest sizable town of Whitehaven. On top of this, the valley road terminates at the head of the lake, from which the valley derives its name. As such the only way to reach the end of the coulee is on foot or by mountain bike. Personally I think this is great, as the valley gives you a real sense of what the Lakes was like before the onslaught of tourism and all the cheese ball trimmings and litter loutish behavior that brings. Anyway I digress…
Tom Newberry on Visual Impact 7a+/V7
Let’s make one thing clear from the outset: this place is not a major destination; it’s not even a minor destination. However, from time to time we do get the odd request for bouldering information relating to Ennerdale, so in the interest of definitivism [sic] I thought we should recce the area and report the findings.
Pil, the aforementioned spiller of the beans, documented his information in way of a photographic journal of what he had sent and descriptions for the lines in question. Unfortunately though we didn’t have any real idea of where the blocks were, so we just had to head down the valley in exploratory mode hoping for the best. After a couple of miles of fruitless searching we had a piece of good fortune; two gents – obviously climbers – came pounding down the valley track on mountain bikes, after the obligatory “aye up” I realized I had met one of the gents before. It turned out to be a guy I had last met in Switzerland two years previously (Neil I believe is his name), who was out with his mate to do some routes on Pillar Rock. Fortuitously, Neil’s mate was a local who recognised, from my description, the trackside block, and kindly filled us in with location details. The game was afoot.
Tom Newberry on The Grinding Mind 7b+/V8
Once we had located the boulder by the track we pieced together the locations of the other boulders (all in the near vicinity) and in turn had a great day working our way through Pil’s circuit – I had printed off all his images, and as such identifying the blocks was easy enough once we were on the right track. Despite the isolation of the area, if you are a keen boulderer operating in the mid to higher grades (the best problems are 7a/+ and above) and are ever in the area for some reason, Pil’s lines are well worth seeking out. In particular, Visual Impact (7a+/V7) and The Grinding Mind (7b+/V8) are absoutly superb, and would be classics at any crag.
Due to the esoteric nature of the area I haven’t put together an actual topo as such. However, the following *Google map contains parking, approach, boulder locations, and problem descriptions, which should suffice if used in combination with a few printed off action shots.
View Ennerdale Boulders in a larger map
*Note: The forests on the Google map do not accurately represent those actually in place, as the area is deforested and replanted regularly - i.e. the tree cover changes depending on logging activities.
To check out Pil's original info/images click here.
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Of the limestone crags, Woodwell is still the dampest venue. However that said, climbing is still easily possible on most buttresses.
Sunday, 11 April 2010
This venue has a somewhat unique past, full details of which can be found on the "Crag's Page"...
There are also a few action images on our Facebook page here...
Friday, 9 April 2010
As an aside, the 'new' circuit at Windy Clough (recently reported) dries almost instantly the rain stops...
Tuesday, 6 April 2010
Monday, 29 March 2010
Fairy Steps - pretty dry with odd seepage line.
Trowbarrow - mostly fine, with the odd seepage line but nothing to affect any climbs majorly.
Warton - almost entirely dry, with the exception of some crack lines.
Woodwell - the worst crag in terms of seepage, some of the Central Sector is ok.
The weather for this week looks poor so get out while you can...
Monday, 22 March 2010
If you notice any glaring cock ups or suspected accidental omissions then let me know here, or via the email address on the home page of the site.
It's quite a large file (13.92mb), but I decided I'd put too much effort in to it, to then offer a poorer print quality, lower resolution version. So here is the undiluted original in all its glory...
(via the 'PDF Guide' link at the base of this page)
Monday, 15 March 2010
Tuesday, 9 March 2010
Thursday, 4 March 2010
Tuesday, 2 March 2010
The slot on E-Fix is still wet, as is the streak left of the Hoodoo traverse. The first footholds on Plumbline Traverse were also wet. Poison was dry, if a little glassy. Incidentally, Nik Jennings didn't feel the hold alteration makes a huge difference to grade.
If it stays dry (which it is supposed to) Warton will be in good nick in the next few days.
Our man on the ground (AJ Hebson) also informs me that most of Warton Pinnacle Crag was "ok" at the weekend, and as such the various Warton crags should also be in reasonable nick by the weekend, barring a break in the weather.
Thursday, 25 February 2010
As an aside I found that the finger jug on Poison had lost its wobbly bit. It's now better at the left end and the move to it on Poison is a tad easier, as is the match for the next move. I suspect it's still 7c but certainly a little easier than before.
A picture of the hold that will make no sense unless you know it well!!
Monday, 22 February 2010
The Pit face of the Shelterstone is in pretty good nick. There's some dampness on the rest of the boulder, but generally not too bad.
Monday, 8 February 2010
First job is to get around to doing a new guide for St. Bees Head - North, which has been in the offing for a while, however the complex topography of the layout has had me scratching my head as to how to display sector/boulder locations, in the most time-efficient manner. I finally came up with the idea of using shots of the crag taken from the sea, however as I have neither a boat nor the disposable funds to hire one, I opted to ask the FRCC if I could use the images they (Paul Jennings) took for their recent Buttermere & St. Bees guide. They (Stephen Reid) kindly gave me the permission to use the images, and they've already sent me the blank originals. So once I get back from a forthcoming trip, I shall crack on with putting something together. I will be ably assisted by local sandstone devotee Dan Varian, so between us we shouldn't miss out anything too glaring.
The second port of call, in terms of places needing a well deserved guide overhaul is Woodwell. Hopefully this will also get done sometime later in the year - by mid summer hopefully.
Finally, as you may have noticed we are looking for a site sponsor/advertising partner. If you are in a position where this may be of interest, don't hesitate to get in touch, as this will help massively in terms of how much the site/guides get updated and improved over the coming months and years.
More details - http://lakesbloc.com/advertise-on-lakesbloc
Monday, 1 February 2010
The most notable grade tweaks are to Supposition Test, which has been dropped from 7c to 7b - the difference between holding the blunt arete in winter compared to summer is so substantial that the crux went from being a low percentage throw to a high percentage static lock - and Doctor Manhattan, which goes from 7c to 7b+, thanks to some more efficient toe/heel beta.
Finally, I have also added St Bees Head North and South video page's.
Saturday, 30 January 2010
Thursday, 28 January 2010
St. Bees Head - South Article
Wednesday, 27 January 2010
Hopefully this helps further enhance the site and is not misused. If the facility becomes hard work to maintain and unhelpful/spam-like posts are left I will remove the function from the site.
Sunday, 24 January 2010
First up I have added a gallery for the Kentmere boulders, which can be found here. Gallery creation is an ongoing process, and partially related to how many images I have access to for all the areas on site, please feel free to donate any relevant images: email@example.com
The second update relates to the St. Bees Head - South guide; which since its release a while back has been outdated, thanks to the numerous new problems put up across the inclusive areas. I have added as many of the new lines as possible to the guide which is now live for download, via the St. Bees Head - South page.
Friday, 22 January 2010
Thursday, 21 January 2010
Sunday, 17 January 2010
Thursday, 14 January 2010
Tom's Roof is now taking a fair bit of melt water with most problems affected today. More water was coming down from above so I'd expect it to get worse before it gets better. I'm also told most things at WoR are wet too.
Sunday, 10 January 2010
Over at trowbarrow the vitruvian man face of the giant shelter stone was climable and in top nick. The other faces had melting snow on top and if the thaw continues will be wet. The red wall area was ok. Seepage on ying yang, the start of shallow grave and the diagonal break at the foot of nicks problem.
Saturday, 9 January 2010
Wednesday, 6 January 2010
Monday, 4 January 2010
Tom's roof wasn't bad, the usual seepage on the low break of BOBN, Closer, right undercut of AOSD etc. Anesthesia dry, but again felt slippery.
Friday, 1 January 2010
The Shelterstone is pretty much all dry, if a little glassy.
Red Wall has the usual streaks (Yin Yang, left of Grimlock's, right of 6 Foot Sicks etc) but was otherwise OK- certianly plenty to go at.
Having said that, it has started snowing again this afternoon so things may change.