Monday, 8 December 2014

Hold Breakage at St. Bees North

Jack Metcalfe reports some hold breakage on the recently developed Modulator Block, located close to the base of St. Bees North's Northern Descent. Jack re-climbed the relevant lines and added a couple of other variants. He explains:

While repeating 'Modulator' last week a hold broke off unfortunately - this is the 'spikey edge' that you make a difficult dead point move to with your left hand while your right hand is still on the jug at the base of the bloc. Fortunately the problem is still possible but it now involves the use of a 2 finger pocket on the right-hand face in order to bring your left hand up to the good edges on the blunt arete. With the use of a right heel toe in the white rock it's possible to reach the pocket quite steadily.

After repeating the other problems on the bloc I added 2 variation finishes to both Salvage and Modulator. For Salvage, after making the crux move out to the far right-hand pocket, instead of crossing over with you left-hand as Tom does into the Modulator holds, I went straight up to the top of the bloc and topped out directly. This is a touch easier than Tom's full problem. For Modulator, after gaining the good holds on the blunt arete, instead of popping out to the rib on the right, I went straight up and left to the top of the bloc and topped out slightly left after a bit of shuffling to find some holds for use rocking over. This goes at about the same grade.

After a number of repeats from the guys on this side of t'Lakes the grades have settled a bit and are now roughly as follows:

Modulator (after hold breakage and new beta) - 7A
Modulator (LH finish) - 7A
Buoyz in the Hood - 7B
Salvage - 7B+
Salvage (direct finish) - 7B