I have updated the 7-8s graded list/s to include any recent additions to the various LakesBloc areas, as well as revising the grades and stars of a number of problems.
Feedback welcome....
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This blog is here to offer conditions, access and aspect reports to crags and venues within the Lake District and nearby climbing areas. We will also post information regarding site updates, forthcoming online guides, and new editions when appropriate.
11 comments:
Why do all the good problems solid at the grade get downgraded??
The pit problem 7b???
To be fair this problem originally got V8 (7b) but as the the Low Start was 7c (and low in the grade), the Pit Problem, not being much easier, got 7b+. On reflection a few of us thought the the Low Start is probably more like 7b+, thus the stand up went back to 7b. Make sense?
A couple of queries...
Did Tom Newbury climb the Texas Hold Em' SDS before Sam D?
I noticed that The Aarinator has a question mark over the first ascentionist - I thought that was also climbed by Sam D.
Looking for other stuff regarding Sam D's ascents I found a question mark over the second ascents of Kaizen and Kaizen Light, and we know that Sam has repeated both versions.
Also, I would also argue that Cloning Technology is harder than Nuclear Tides and that the grade should be the opposite way around or both graded at 8A. If it's helpful, I felt that Nuclear Tides is french route grade 8A. Or... am I mistaking Cloning Tech and Cloning Tech Ext? (whats the difference?). I am easily confused.
Thanks, Aaron T
Hi Aaron, thanks for taking the time to post.
Regarding Sam's ascents: the removal of Sam's ascents/name from the list is purely down to the fact I have had it made clear to me by a number of people, both directly and indirectly, that Sam wants no publicity/reporting of his ascents (something I guess we are contradicting here). I, like you, find this a bit bemusing, and whilst some have made contrary statements – that he isn't bothered about the reporting of his achievements – I have got a little tired of trying to work out the truth of the matter. Therefore I have removed the information until I hear from either Sam directly or indirectly (i.e via one of his “confidants”) regarding what exactly he has climbed by way of significant FA's and/or repeats.
Regarding Cloning Technolgy: I don't understand the question. Cloning Tech gets 8a on the list and Nuclear Tides gets 7c+, this therefore confirms your own appraisal, no?
Thanks again.
Sorry! my mistake, I meant Nuclear Transplant. Doh.
I'll call sam and see what he says, but I think he'll want his ascents recording. I think he is unerved by wider publicity etc...
Aaron
(posting under Anon as I don't want to sign up to another internet account)
That would be great thanks. Like I say I could do with a definitive account of his ascents from one source, and his permission to use it.
Most people I know seem to think Nuclear Tides is ok/low end 7c+?
I'll email you regarding Sam.
I meant Nick C's Nuclear Transplant not Nuclear Tides...it gets confusing, I am confused, it must be catching, anyway, it's not that important...just a query/comment.
Can I email you on info@lakesbloc.com?
Aaron
Thanks, yes anything sent to that email will come through to me.
Just wondering why Picnic Sarcastic Direct finish was left off? I reckon it is a good obvious alternate to the original worthy of a listing!
Rich
Why has tornique been downgraded to 8a/8a+ ? Seems a little odd!
RE Picnic Direct: This was purely an error. I'll get it added.
RE Tourniquet: It was actually 8a on the last list. Opinion (between those who have done it) seems divided on the matter. It did originally get 8a.
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