I have updated the 7-8s graded list/s to include any recent additions to the various LakesBloc areas, as well as revising the grades and stars of a number of problems.
Feedback welcome....
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Thursday, 17 February 2011
St Bees Head South - Landslip
There's been a landslip at St. Bees Head - South, from hill/cliff above the north end of the beach. Shouldn't cause too many issues if you need to get to the crag but be careful...
More info and images
http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles
More info and images
http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles
Wednesday, 16 February 2011
St. Bees Issues
Thought I’d share this email I recently sent to the BMC with you, as it could affect anyone who utilizes St. Bees Head…
“First up, as I'm sure you are aware St. Bees becomes evermore popular as the years roll on (partially my fault I guess), and with the increased footfall and year-round visitors the descents are taking increasing hammer, to the point where the base of the central, and most used access point, is crumbling into the sea, becoming a) an eyesore and b) slightly dangerous - the last section does not have an insitu 'confidence rope'. The upper sections are also becoming quite worn, with the original vague trail becoming an obvious muddy track with a couple of deviations off the main path. A possible solution is perhaps to close this off through the winter months (when it is at its most fragile) and ask users to use the slightly longer but easier northern descent or the more 'adventurous' southern descent at the Fisherman's Steps?
The second issue is something that is probably beyond your control but I thought it was worth bringing to your attention, as it could in future cause access problems, if and when the RSPB catch wind of it. In a nut shell the fisherman who use the headland are generally complete arse holes! They persist on leaving copious amounts of litter and various other junk - plastic bags, large towels covered in fish guts, bags of semi-defrosted bait, teabags, crisp packets, sandwich rappers, fishing line, etc etc. - on the headland after their sessions, allowing it to be washed into the sea when the tide comes in. I do not over exaggerate when I say it is pretty much every fisherman I have ever seen on the headland, whether at the north or south head. If you want further details I can furnish you with numerous anecdotes of leaving the crag with my crash pad full of bags of THEIR rubbish which I have removed. Fortunately, whilst this is a fairly big problem on the southern head, there is still fairly low numbers prepared to handle the more arduous descent into the northern head, although it does seem as though numbers are increasing – there were 6 guys there last Sunday.”
I had a positive response from the BMC. With regards to the erosion issue: there are few obvious solutions tabled and this will be discussed at the next BMC “Lakes Area Meet”, so if anyone has any views on this please feel free to attend and give your input. Regarding the fishermen and their rubbish issue: there’s not a great deal we, as climbers, can do about this other than take anything you can away and dispose of it properly. Not our job I know, but it may help alleviate any future access issues.
“First up, as I'm sure you are aware St. Bees becomes evermore popular as the years roll on (partially my fault I guess), and with the increased footfall and year-round visitors the descents are taking increasing hammer, to the point where the base of the central, and most used access point, is crumbling into the sea, becoming a) an eyesore and b) slightly dangerous - the last section does not have an insitu 'confidence rope'. The upper sections are also becoming quite worn, with the original vague trail becoming an obvious muddy track with a couple of deviations off the main path. A possible solution is perhaps to close this off through the winter months (when it is at its most fragile) and ask users to use the slightly longer but easier northern descent or the more 'adventurous' southern descent at the Fisherman's Steps?
The second issue is something that is probably beyond your control but I thought it was worth bringing to your attention, as it could in future cause access problems, if and when the RSPB catch wind of it. In a nut shell the fisherman who use the headland are generally complete arse holes! They persist on leaving copious amounts of litter and various other junk - plastic bags, large towels covered in fish guts, bags of semi-defrosted bait, teabags, crisp packets, sandwich rappers, fishing line, etc etc. - on the headland after their sessions, allowing it to be washed into the sea when the tide comes in. I do not over exaggerate when I say it is pretty much every fisherman I have ever seen on the headland, whether at the north or south head. If you want further details I can furnish you with numerous anecdotes of leaving the crag with my crash pad full of bags of THEIR rubbish which I have removed. Fortunately, whilst this is a fairly big problem on the southern head, there is still fairly low numbers prepared to handle the more arduous descent into the northern head, although it does seem as though numbers are increasing – there were 6 guys there last Sunday.”
I had a positive response from the BMC. With regards to the erosion issue: there are few obvious solutions tabled and this will be discussed at the next BMC “Lakes Area Meet”, so if anyone has any views on this please feel free to attend and give your input. Regarding the fishermen and their rubbish issue: there’s not a great deal we, as climbers, can do about this other than take anything you can away and dispose of it properly. Not our job I know, but it may help alleviate any future access issues.
Monday, 20 December 2010
Snow 2
Whilst it goes without saying most places are badly affected by the recent snowy conditions, that usual oasis of good weather, St. Bees Head, has also (unlike last year) been hit by the snow. Most specifically the Northern Head, which yesterday had around 5cm of snow on most boulders, not to mention the central descent, which has been turned into a winter Grade II gully - not for the faint of heart! On the up side, the Southern Head (thanks to its more south facing aspect) was in excellent condition from a climbing point of view, although both (on foot) approaches are a little sketchy in places.
As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.
As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.
Friday, 3 December 2010
Snow
A quick conditions update for the current snowy period.
Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually. The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine. Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!
Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.
Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked. Get to it whilst it's good!!
Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually. The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine. Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!
Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.
Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked. Get to it whilst it's good!!
Sunday, 17 October 2010
Mosedale Boulders Guide
I have added a basic photo-topo for the Mosedale Boulders, Carrock Fell to the database. This is directly available here...
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/carrock-mosedale-boulders-guide.pdf
For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...
http://lakesbloc.com/news/295-mexican-rumble-a-old-spice.html
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/carrock-mosedale-boulders-guide.pdf
For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...
http://lakesbloc.com/news/295-mexican-rumble-a-old-spice.html
Friday, 15 October 2010
Iphone & Android 'Stone' Guide
Iphone & Android Bowderstone guide 'Smart Phone Aps' now fully functioning and available for free here....
http://www.thesend.co.uk/apps/bowderstone.php
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/81-bowderstone.html
21st Century Guiding!
http://www.thesend.co.uk/apps/bowderstone.php
http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/81-bowderstone.html
21st Century Guiding!
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